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Gifts from the Greeks
I especially love the dwarf pencil sharpener, given to me by a
4 1/2-year-old Greek girl
There are so many endearing Greek traits, but if I had to pick my two favorites, they would be blessings and generosity.

Greeks have blessings for every occasion imaginable. Every holiday, every birthday, every name day…these are to be expected. But what about each new week, new month, weekend, even the three-day weekends? All are preceded by the word “good,” as in “Good week,” “Good month,” “Good weekend (Saturday-Sunday),” “Good three-day weekend.” The time of day determines the greeting, another blessing: “Good day (morning),” “Good mid-day,” “Good afternoon,” “Good evening,” and “Goodnight.” But it doesn’t end there. “Good appetite,” “Good time,” “Good rest,” “Good sleep,” “Good trip,” “Good vacation,” and “May you pass your time well (good).”

Did you recently purchase a new article of clothing? Then you will hear, “Meh yah!” (“With health!”) from the sales clerk. If you’re at a wedding and related to the groom or the bride, you will hear a blessing that means, roughly, “May they live!” (said in the same vein as Spock’s “Live long and prosper.”) The same at a baptism. The usual blessing for New Years, name days and birthdays is “Many years!” At birthdays, you may also hear, “May you live to one hundred years!” Basically, there is a blessing for every occasion imaginable.

The lovely part is that it is said with meaning and kefi (passion). You really do feel blessed.

Add to this that Greeks are generous to a fault. From the moment I landed on my first Greek island, I had all of my needs provided. My first Greek boyfriend provided me with a place to stay, transportation, clothes to wear, and food to eat. He also protected me from all of the other Greek men and introduced me to some of my closest Greek friends. And he wasn’t the only one. It was years before I paid for a single drink. Even today, twenty years later, I was not allowed to pay for my hot chocolate. The owner of the café also disappeared before I could pay him for my breakfast. When I approached him the next day, he said “tomorrow.” Did I ever pay him? We have both, long-since, forgotten.

I will never forget one meal on the touristy Sporades Island of Skiathos. Greece was in the middle of a two-month strike. Nothing was functioning. Even the electricity was on strike and would turn off, predictably, right around dinner time. The restaurants were scrambling to keep the food warm. A group of European tourists at the table next to ours was complaining loudly that their food was lukewarm, not hot. They continued to give the waiter a bad time. My girlfriend and I were cringing. The waiter was so relieved that we, too, didn’t yell at him that he kept bringing us little treats…first some fruit, then some yogurt with honey, then some ouzo, then Metaxa, then more ouzo. We had to finally decline his overwhelming generosity.

I remember some of my earlier days on the island of Skopelos. I have always stayed in the same neighborhood, which used to be home to several elderly women. It would take me hours to traverse the last twenty feet back, because each little grandmother would offer me coffee, then sweets, then nuts, then more sweets. Just today, a dear friend who functions as my mother-away-from-home, invited me to dinner. I apologized because I felt that my joining her was an imposition—I wanted to have dinner with her family, but I felt guilty that they couldn’t have a meal without me. She thought that I was apologizing because I could not join them—and told me not to worry, that she would invite me again soon when they were having something nice. I was too surprised to clarify.

In just three days of this current trip, I received two bowls of  fresh grapes (from two different people), two plates of fresh figs, three meals, several free drinks, a large painted water jug, fresh eggs, nuts and two vases of fresh flowers. I turned down additional offers of several meals and drinks. I also received discounts on five different purchases. I remember my mother commenting that Greek generosity stems from their mythology of Gods traveling as visitors. “But,” I retorted, “These Greeks know that I’m not a God!

Each year when I prepare for my return trip I must purchase an additional bag in which to carry all the gifts that I have been given.—gifts which are usually heavy, large and breakable, if not perishable. (See: Greek Duffle Bag Contents-or-What the Heck is in This Thing?) And each year when I return home, I am struck by the generosity of the Greeks and, in comparison, our almost sterile American encounters. I am, frankly, shocked when an American stranger offers a blessing. The most we can hope for in California is, “Have a good day.” And I recall a handful of occasions that I was given the gift of a free cappuccino or pastry at my local coffee shop; each time was such an unexpected surprise that I remember each occasion in detail!

We can learn a lot from the practice of Greek blessings and generosity. How different our day and our world would be if we remembered to extend both to mere strangers! Because, you never know—they could be visiting Gods, disguised!

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One of my fave rings from Thallo in Kolonaki, Athens

It’s the moment you’ve all been waiting for…What precious or nonexpendable non-liquid items are in my Greek carry-on? You’ll find some treasures and some necessities. Just to be thorough, I’ll include purse and on-body items in this grouping, as well. Also, I assume you’re interested in the contents of my return trip home, rather than my outbound trip there. It’s probably of less interest to you to hear about the items I take to Greece, although how to pack for Greece could fill up several blog posts. Let me know if you’re interested. Otherwise, though geared towards treks, you can gain some extremely useful information and tips on packing from my friend and author Cara at her website Girls Trek Too!

1.  One-pint ziplock bag with small portions of liquids, crèmes and toothpaste consistent with security requirements on U.S.-bound flights. I will take this opportunity to mention one indispensible item that you should take to Greece: ziplock bags. The Greek variety is grossly inferior and will thoroughly disappoint. Beside the pint size for U.S. security, I also take several sandwich and quart-sized bags. They come in handy for packing all that olive oil, ouzo, and Greek honey.  They also serve as an easy organizer for clothes, toiletries and other various items, liquid and solid.

 2.  My travel-sized tempurpedic pillow, which is neck-saving, back-saving and life-saving. I not only use it on the plane but in the Frankfurt airport, pretending to nap in the smoke-infested air during my six hour layover to Athens. I have also used it in Greece. Have I mentioned their atrocious rock-hard beds and pillows? Another post.

 3.  Money belt, worn right across my private parts. It seems to be very safe there, since there aren’t usually many available Greek or Italian men on the flight out of Athens. I may be the only person on the plane who still wears a money belt, but I don’t care. If nothing else, it makes me feel secure and powerful. Inside are all the travelers’ checks that I brought with me “just in case” but never used, because my ATM card actually worked. (BTW-ATM cards are the way to go now. Cashing travelers’ checks will run you an extra 20-25 Euros plus commission per transaction. Just another way to screw tourists.) Also inside are a couple credit cards, my passport and any cash that I managed not to spend. I always bring back Euros so that I’ll have them for the next trip.

 I tend to carry a lot more in my money belt since that fated airplane restroom episode…I had finally made it into my seat for my flight to Athens (by way of some European city that I don’t remember—all the trips blur together after awhile). I decide that this would be a good time to go to the restroom. I grabbed my wallet, quickly did my thing, and returned to my seat. I buckled up my seat belt and prepared myself for the seventeen or eighteen or twenty-hour journey. I was feeling rather pleased; everything was going so well. Then I heard, “Will Rebecca Elia please press her call button.” OMG, what’s happened? Are they going to kick me off the plane? Did they break the lock on my packed-to-the-brim suitcase? Was my fancy string underwear now strewn across the tarmac for every airport baggage handler to see? After taking a deep breath I pushed my call button and tried not to look guilty (of what, I don’t know). The flight attendant suddenly appeared next to my seat (did she glide? Where did she come from?) “We found something of yours in the restroom.” In her hand was my wallet. I just about had a heart attack on the spot. I couldn’t imagine arriving in Greece without my credit cards or ID. Just the hassle, alone, to cancel the cards from overseas was enough to kill my entire vacation. And we hadn’t even left the ground yet. Jeez, I was still in San Francisco!

 4.   Okay, are you still with me? We get to the fun stuff now…Greek jewelry. Oh, but not just any Greek jewelry. Not the Greek key in every possible variation. Not thick gold chains.

Here are my faves: 
          Thallo—Yes, the ring in the picture is from Thallo. I have one just like it. My mother has an entire dresser drawer filled with their jewelry. I am addicted to the stuff. Here’s the catch. See that daisy (margarita, the Greeks say)? It is a real daisy! The actual flower is inside. Now, others have done this with leaves and more solid plant parts, but flowers? It’s remarkable. I usually bring back one or two items for me and several for the women in my family. Christmas is really boring for them, because they already know what their gift will be. They are located in Kolonaki in Athens. For more beautiful examples, see their website: http://www.thallousa.com

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No, your eyes aren't playing tricks on you. It is 007 with Peggy, one of my mothers away from home, in the entrance to her family's amazing jewelry shop on Skopelos
          Giannakopoulos—If you happen to travel to Skopelos, you must take a look at this jewelry. Lefteris is one of the finest jewelers I have ever seen. He makes beautiful pieces in ancient designs and patterns that are unmatched. His daughter is also a jeweler and creates more modern pieces. I’m not the only one who returns there year after year. Lefteris’ wife Peggy is one of my mothers away from home. Her incredible energy and generosity attract people from all over the world. Even Pierce Brosnan and his family couldn’t stay away. When he was filming Mamma Mia on Skopelos, he’d drop by daily to give Peggy a kiss. They are located on the main street at the port behind the yellow chairs. 

5.       Breakables that I’m too scared to place in checked luggage. There is a lot of crap-pottery in Greece, but there are also some really beautiful pieces. Each location has its own unique type. On Skopelos, Rodios creates amazing black pottery in ancient forms. They’ve recently branched out and have created some with a silvery tint and others with a khaki army look.  They are located in the main town at the end of the harbor (on the road that heads out of town) between Hotel Eleni and Skopelorama Holidays agency. Watch him in action, and listen to some Greek at this site. Warning: this youtube video will make you want to take up ceramics! The pottery on Skyros is also quite beautiful and unique. Their museum shop has a lovely selection.

 6.     Mamma Mia poster ads, all rolled up

 And last, but not least, probably the most essential items:

 7.      Cell phones—yes, plural—and appropriate phone cards.  I have my American, unlocked phone and my Greek phone (in case my American phone goes on the fritz or has inconsistent service). Words of caution: just because it says “world phone” doesn’t mean it will work everywhere. One of my phones only worked in towns and cities, not on the water—which was a problem since so much travel in Greece is on the water. Phone cards includes: a sim card for Greece (remember, your phone must be unlocked to use a different sim card), sim card for the U.S., prepaid phone card for cell phone service in Greece (there are many; I use Vodafone ala carte), and a phone card for public Greek phones. I always bring back one of each so that I won’t be caught without on my return trip. The type of prepaid card I have for the cell phone requires purchasing one card minimum each year—so (if hell freezes over) I don’t make it back to Greece within a year, I will still be able to keep my cell phone coverage.

 Let me know what you bring back from Greece in your carry-on!

 Future post: My fave Greek gifts.


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